How much can you see in one day? We are, after all, talking about a city with a total metropolitain population almost double that of Denmark. So there is one obvious answer: you don’t have time for it all.
We were aware of this from the start, so our ambition was merely to get a taste of a city which is worth both more and longer visits. I have some knowledge of Chicago from my childhood, but it was Katrine’s first visit to anything besides the airport. Now that my parents live nearby, we’ll probably be spending more time here. “Nearby” is, of course, a relative term. It is the closest big city, yes, but it’s still around three hours away by train. Which is like going from Southern Jutland to Copenhagen, or Canberra to Sydney.
Third World Rail
The train ride on the South Shore Line is an experience in itself, especially when you’re used to Western European standards. For one, the nearest station (South Bend) is half an hour away by car, and there are only 5 daily return trips to Chicago. This is automobile country. The train is comfortable enough, but it feels more like India or Thailand when all crossings are at grade, and the tracks run straight through the town centers we pass on the way. In Michigan City, the train runs in the middle of a street which is open to cars, and which has sidewalks and driveways right next to the tracks. Hardly anyone’s favorite place to live. The trip through industrial slum town Gary is also a sad and desolate, albeit fascinating, experience.
After a few hours, the train reaches the terminal station, Millennium Park, in the heart of Chicago. By now it’s time for lunch, so we have a delicious (and big) burger at the Park Grill. This gives us a view of the skating rink which is surprisingly full of people on a random weekday morning. And some are pretty good skaters, too.
Outdoor vs. Indoor
We walk through Millennium Park, and down through Grant Park (where Barack Obama celebrated his victory on election night in 2008), along the lakeshore. It is mercifully calm in the Windy City, but it is still January, and freezing. The outdoors attractions will probably be more impressive in another season. But we have a good chance to study and admire the city skyline. Chicago is the home of the skyscraper, and it is clear that many of these huge buildings are old, compared to skylines in Asia or Australia. They seem much more solid and concrete, with brick facades, whereas the newer glass towers stand out as modern islands in a thoroughly traditional city.
At the end of Grant Park are several museums, and Chicago has much to offer in this area. You could probably spend a week just visiting museums etc., but we have just one day, and so have planned on entering the Shedd Aquarium. Hours pass easily in this large and interesting haven for all living things in the water. The larger-than-life Anaconda (maybe 7 meters long and 25 cm across) makes the most lasting impression, and inspires an awe of natural danger.
Shop ‘Til You Drop
It being winter, we skip the other parks, Navy Pier, and the zoo, and spend the rest of our afternoon walking the Magnificent Mile, the strip of Michigan Avenue from John Hancock Center to the river. Our first stop is the Hershey’s chocolate store near the Water Tower, which gives us a delicious energy boost to continue on. Now it’s time for shopping, and options here are plentiful for any budget. We become several bags heavier as we make our way down toward the center.
When we reach the river it has become dark, and the temperature has dropped even lower. The city is beautiful in evening lights, but we are happy to go inside and make our way to the last train back to South Bend. Supper is take-away, eaten on the train. You can’t have time for everything. And after a long ride, and a long day, we return to our temporary home in Michigan.
So how much did we see in one day? Not nearly enough. But with a plan and an acceptance of your limits, it is possible to get a good glimpse of the place, and to gain an appetite for more. Chicago is a pleasant acquaintance, and we’ll look forward to more visits in the coming years.